Joan of Arc, ‘A Great Joy!’
French Pilgrimage-Stay in Monasteries
June 8-June 18, 2017
““When I was thirteen, I had a voice from God … the first time, I was very fearful. And came this
voice, about the hour of noon, in the summer-time, in my father’s garden … I heard the voice on the right-
hand side towards the church; and rarely do I hear it without a great light…He told me that I, Jeanne,
should come into France… And when I have made my prayer to God, I hear a voice that says to me:
‘Daughter of God, go, go, go! I shall be with you to help you. Go!’ and when I hear that voice I feel a
great joy. Indeed, I would that I might ever be in that state.” Joan of Arc, Trial of Condemnation
Joan of Arc
‘A Great Joy’ French Pilgrimage
Stay in Monasteries
June 8-June 18, 2017
DESTINATIONS: Bauffremont, le Bec Hellouin monastery,
Bermont, la Chapelle de Beauregard, Chartres, Domrémy-la-
Pucelle, Fort des Tourelles site, Jargeau, Maxey-sur-Meuse,
Orléans, le Pont Boieldieu, Reims, Rouen, Saint-Benoit-sur-Loire
monastery, Saint Thierry monastery, Vaucouleurs, Vouthon-Bas
God willing, in June 2017 we will again lead a pilgrimage to France, with
the spirituality and footsteps of Joan of Arc foremost in our plans. This will be our
eleventh opportunity for taking a group on this fascinating journey. Our travel
philosophy remains the same, one of going back to the essentials, of simplicity, of
quality time in some places instead of 'rush-rush' in many. Although we will indeed
see much, we want to experience the places we visit more as spiritual travelers than
as consumers; to first see them through the eyes of believers and/or seekers, and
secondly from such perspectives as historical, architectural, sociological, touristic,
etc. Consequently, we will again purposely remain a small group.
Before going to the itinerary, let’s take a quick glance at Joan of Arc. Did
you know …
- At 17 years old, she remains the youngest supreme military commander in
history, male or female. Louis Kossuth says: “Consider this unique and imposing
distinction. Since the writing of human history began, Joan of Arc is the only
person, of either sex, who has ever held supreme command of the military forces of
a nation at the age of seventeen.” Mr. Kossuth (1802-1894) was Regent-President of Hungary
in 1849. He was widely honored during his lifetime, including in the United Kingdom and the United
States, as a freedom fighter and bellwether of democracy in Europe.
- Those who knew her from childhood frequently described her as “…simple and
good, frequenting the Church and Holy places.” And they left us many specific
examples of her life while growing up in Domremy. For example: “Often, when
she was in the fields and heard the bells ring, she would drop to her knees.”
Dominique Jean Waterin, laborer of Greux, Trial of Nullification, 1456
- She is the most attested person in history up to the 16th century. As Sir Arthur
Conan Doyle (author of Sherlock Holmes) states, “…next to the Christ, the highest spiritual being of whom we have any exact record upon this earth is the girl
Jeanne.”
- Even at the stake, she was heard asking for the forgiveness of those who were
executing her (reminiscent of Jesus), as well as for her own sins: “She also most
humbly begged all manner of people, of whatever condition or rank they might be,
and whether of her party or not, for their pardon and asked them kindly to pray for
her, at the same time pardoning them for any harm they had done her. This she
continued to do for a very long time, perhaps for half an hour and until the end.
The judges who were present, and even several of the English, were moved by this
to great tears and weeping, and indeed several of these same English, recognized
God's hand and made professions of faith when they saw her make so remarkable
an end.” Jean Massieu, Trial of Nullification, 1456
- Her very specific and consistently fulfilled prophecies were famous even in her
own time. “I told them things that have happened, and things that shall happen
yet.” Joan of Arc, Trial of Condemnation, March 3, 1431 Mark Twain said, “… There have
been many uninspired prophets, but she was the only one who ever ventured the
daring detail of naming, along with a foretold event, the event’s precise nature, the
special time-limit within which it would occur, and the place―and scored
fulfillment.” Mark Twain, Joan of Arc-An Essay, 1896 Jeane Dixon was one of the best-
known American astrologers and psychics of the 20th century. However her 50%
success rate of fulfilled prophecy pales when compared with Joan’s 100%.
- She has many parallels and similarities with the saints/prophets of the Bible.
- The church burned her at the stake as a witch on May 30, 1431. Then, officially
recognizing their mistake nearly 500 years later, she was canonized a saint on
May16, 1920. She is now France's Patron saint and her legacy to both France and
the world run deep.
“Across the night of history's blackest pages,
One name is scrolled as by a shaft of sun:
Joan of Arc, the glory of the ages,
Who battled hate, and lost-
And losing, won.”
Albert Bigelow Paine
How did this seventeen-year-old illiterate French peasant girl save France
from English domination? After all, as you might imagine, women’s rights were
not exactly in the forefront during the 15th century. For Joan, the answer was
always simple: God. Listen to her words to the King the first time they met,
“Gentle dauphin, I am Joan the maid, and the King of Heaven commands that
through me you be anointed and crowned in the city of Reims as a lieutenant of the King of Heaven, who is King of France ….’” During her Trial of Condemnation,
she testified that He frequently sent His messengers to help her, and only through
Him was she able to do all she did.
Could this be true? After examining all the records available, we believe the
best and most logical explanation behind Joan of Arc’s amazing feats and life is as
she always said: God. God’s help was given to her in abundance. And through this,
France was saved…
Itinerary
Each day we will gather for some combination of the following:
prayers/meditation, info on activities of the day, addressing questions, Question du
Jour discussions... This time shared together has been a highlight for many who
have come with us. Having said that…
June 8-10, 2017, Rouen: We will all meet at Charles de Gaulle airport in Paris on
Thursday, June 8, 2016, at 11:00am. This has worked very well for past
pilgrimages. This way, those just arriving from the states will not have to go into
Paris in order to link up with the pilgrimage. Also, as some people have expressed
a desire to be able to use their frequent flyer miles, and/or be more flexible before
or after the pilgrimage, we've found that it is better that everyone make their own
flight arrangements. Consequently the price has been reduced accordingly to take
this aspect into consideration.
We will again use a ‘flashback’ approach with our travels. From death to
life. We will begin at the end: Rouen where Joan was burned at the stake. And then
we’ll work our way backwards in time. We’ve tried a few different ways of doing
the pilgrimage, and are now most pleased with this approach. Consequently, upon
departure from the airport, we will immediately go to Joan’s final earthly resting
place: Rouen.
Upon our arrival at Rouen, we will go to our resting place for two evenings:
the Benedictine monastery of Le Bec Hellouin (founded in 1034) located just
outside of the village of the same name, recently voted one of the "most beautiful
villages of France".
And this is one of the most beautiful monasteries in France. Located outside
of the city of Rouen, in France’s bucolic countryside, it provides a restful and
relaxing environment, especially for those who've just arrived from a long flight.
You may attend a service of the Benedictine brothers here if you like. Services
lasts from 15 minutes up to an hour, and you can choose the one that suits you best.
Of course, we have other things planned also, so you will need to set your
priorities. By the end of the pilgrimage, you will have experienced three different
spiritual communities. They are all very different, but each one is dynamic and
joyful in its own way.
Entrance tower to Le Bec Hellouin monastery
We’ll spend most of the next day in Rouen. To steer us along on this part of
the pilgrimage, we are fortunate to have one of the best professional guides we’ve
seen: Jacqueline Prevost. She is a great admirer and student of Joan of Arc, a
lifelong resident of Rouen, and speaks good English. She will accompany us to
l'Eglise Sainte Ouen (where her adjuration took place), la Place du Vieux Marche
(where she was burned at the stake), and the Saint Joan of Arc Church (l’Eglise
Sainte Jeanne d'Arc) that was built there in her honor. And we’ve added another
noteworthy stop: L’Historial Jeanne d’Arc.
This brand new, state-of-the-art interactive museum just opened in March,
2015. It is housed in the Palais de l’Archevêche, where Joan’s actual trials took
place. A massive construction project has restored this heritage-listed building to
its former glory, carefully preserving historic details like the Roman crypt (the
oldest part of the building), the soaring gothic archways, and the 15th century
kitchens with original fireplace.
Some of the restful grounds of Le Bec Hellouin monastery.
On a behind-the-scenes tour of the travaux last fall, France Today was
impressed by the painstaking work of the artisanal craftsmen. To install the
heating, individual tiles were carefully removed from the floors, and then replaced
in the exact order. And the views from the grenier (the attic), over the Rouen
rooftops, are mesmerizing.
The museum’s scenography is enhanced by cutting-edge technology,
lighting, and well-done, short films examining Joan’s life. It is quite impressive,
and presents Joan’s story from a historical point of view, following the trial
transcripts and using state of the art multimedia presentation tools. It sheds light on
every aspect of Joan of Arc: her real life, the political and religious context, the
historiography, and the idea of story-telling itself. L’Historial Jeanne d’Arc
provided an excellent introduction to Joan’s story, and especially the trial in
Rouen.
After this, we will proceed to the old market place where Joan was burned at
the stake. This old city square is very evocative, and it’s not difficult to imagine
even today what Joan suffered there.
It is fitting that we’ll end this day at le Pont Boieldieu, where after the stake
her remains were tossed from this bridge into the Seine River on May 31, 1431.
However, they could not destroy her heart. Neither literally, nor figuratively. Once
dead, the executioner was asked to destroy every part of her body that might
remain. To his great surprise, he found Joan's heart still intact, and filled with
liquid blood. During the Trial of Nullification, Friar Isambart testified to what the
executioner revealed to him about this: “...despite the oil, the sulfur, and the carbon
that he had applied to the entrails and the heart of Joan, he still could not make
them burn in any way, nor could he reduce her entrails and her heart to ashes, at
which he was as astonished as if by a confirmed miracle.”
The head priest of l’Eglise Sainte Jeanne d'Arc, Pere Potel, is a delight, and
speaks fluent English, having lived in the states for 2 years. We will have him with
us for dinner at the monastery this evening, where he’ll gladly answer any
questions you may have.
St Ouen, Rouen-where Joan’s adjuration took place.
June 10-13, 2017, ‘Base Orléans’, via Chartres. Leaving Rouen we will head
towards Orléans, scene of Joan’s history-changing battle. But on the way, we'll
make one important stop: the famous cathedral of Chartres. Since it lies directly on
our way, we cannot in good conscience pass it by. It is certainly one of the most
beautiful cathedrals in France, known the world over for its exceptional blue
stained glass windows. The majority of these stained glass windows are the
originals from the 13th-14th centuries. It is a miracle that they survived World War
II. Joan of Arc’s mother, Isabelle Romée (1377–1458) would have seen these very
windows while there. The architecture has seen only minor changes since the early
13th century. All in all, it is in an exceptional state of preservation, is considered
one of the finest examples of French Gothic architecture and is a UNESCO World
Heritage Site.
BTW, something has been going on there that is definitely worth
mentioning. That is the dramatic changes coming from the restoration of the
Cathedral. Of all the French cathedrals, Chartres is no doubt one whose original
décor, be it the sculptures or stained-glass windows, is the best preserved. Less
known, however, is that 80% of the 13th century plaster has survived under the
built-up dirt and successive centuries of paint. The restoration that had been so
badly needed for such a long time, was begun in 2009, and is practically finished
today. The goal was to simply recover the monument’s initial look without redoing
anything, simply cleaning it, a very high tech and complicated process. The result
is frankly amazing.
The stained-glass windows, having also been under restoration at the same
time, are even more luminous in these new surroundings. The color of the walls
thus changes from a blackish hue to a beautiful ochre shade with white fake
grouting, the architectural ribbing also covered in white, while the keystones are
polychromatic (the date of these colors is not known but it has been carefully
preserved).Two gaps have been left in place as proofs showing the extent of the
difference.
Since at least the 12th century the cathedral has been an important
destination for travelers – and remains so to this day, attracting large numbers of
Christian pilgrims, many who come to venerate its famous relic, the Sancta
Camisa, said to be the tunic worn by the Virgin Mary at Christ's birth. And large
numbers of secular tourists also come to admire the cathedral's architecture and
historical merit.
Chartres Cathedral.
After our visit at Chartres, we will continue to Orléans, where in a nearby
small town, we'll check in to our home for the next 3 days: the world-renowned
Benedictine monastery St-Benoit-sur-Loire. It is located on the Loire River, and
will be a welcome respite from the 'big city' of Orléans.
The ancient Benedictine Monastery of St-Benoit-sur-Loire
(i.e St. Benedict on the Loire River)
This still active monastery was founded around 630 AD, and is one of the
oldest abbeys of the Benedictine rule. Saint Benedict (c. 480 – 547AD) is honored
by the Catholic Church and the Anglican Church as the patron saint of all of
Europe and students. His remains are housed in this monastery to this day.
Much history has been recorded at St. Benoit. Joan of Arc and the French
Revolution both passed through here, but their visits could not have been more
different. Charles VII, accompanied by Joan while on the way to Reims for his
anointing and coronation, came peacefully through on June 21-22, 1429. The
French Revolutionaries of the 18th century, on the other hand, passed through St
Benoit pillaging and destroying.
Today a community of approximately 40 monks resides within its walls.
They still follow the Rule of St Benedict, and may be singing Gregorian chants or
the Psalms during services, but in any case, you’re invited to sing along if you like.
You may participate in prayer services with them if you like. There are 6
different services each day, some very short (as short as 15 minutes), and also
longer ones (as long as 75 minutes).
Benedictine monks singing Psalms during a short service at St-Benoit-sur-Loire
The rooms at St. Benoit are very nice, providing all the necessary essentials,
but as with all monasteries, purposely simple. We won't be surrounded by material
luxury, but rather the luxury of things we may have forgotten. Such as simplicity,
peaceful surroundings, some silence … And their wonderful eleventh century
abbey church, built in the Romanesque style, is always just steps away.
While in Orleans we will take some of our meals here. The food will be
simple, healthy and tasty; French style.
Heading to the Loire River, ten minutes from St Benoit monastery.
St Benoit will mark the half-way point of the pilgrimage, and although
we’ll be busy, St Benoit provides the perfect place for a little down time. There’ll
be some to relax and enjoy the small town atmosphere and take a river walk …
BTW, if you speak some French, your experience in France will of course
take on an added dimension. However if you don't, this is not a problem. Most
people who have come with us don't speak any French at all. We will be translating
for most tours, activities etc. (FYI-Catherine is French, and Chris is American, and
we both speak French and English fluently).
Day-trip destinations while in Orleans include:
-the great Cathédrale Sainte-Croix d'Orléans (i.e. Cathedral of the Holy
Cross of Orleans). Immediately after the battle of Orleans was over, Joan went here
to give thanks to God for His great victory over the English. Dominique is the
assistant of the priest here, and she has been very kind in giving us a private tour of
the Cathedral. She has sent her assistant to take us up to the roofs, and then to the
very foundations of the Cathedral. These are things that most people never get a
chance to see. After Sunday Mass here, we will have lunch with Dominique and
some of the parishioners.
Cathédrale Sainte-Croix d'Orléans
-Site of Les Tourelles-the main fortress protecting the English in 1429 was
called Les Tourelles. This is gone now, but we’ll go to the river to see where it
once stood. It’s not difficult to imagine what once was from this viewpoint. This is
another interesting and appreciative site we’ve added to the pilgrimage recently.
-the Château de Sully-sur-Loire is a fairy-tale like castle. Joan spent a couple
of months here prior to being captured. Weather and circumstances permitting, we
will have a French picnic lunch on the Loire River, overlooking this beautiful
castle. It's truly a site to behold. You’ll also be able to explore the castle on your
own. Once we arrive in Domremy, you will meet the Prince and Princess of
Bauffremont, whose family owned this castle for many years. They remember
going there during the summers to play. Not your typical ‘Romper Room’.
Picnic area at Sully-sur-Loire
-Jargeau is a small town on the southern bank of the Loire, about ten miles east of
Orléans. The Battle of Jargeau took place on June 11-12, 1429. It was Joan’s first
offensive battle, and was the first sustained French offensive in a generation. Le
Duc d’Alencon, Joan’s friend and a commanding officer said, “Joan breathed the
will of God into French troops, ensuring them their victory, saying, ‘Act, and God
will act!’ … a stone hit her on the head here (it split in two against her helmet as
she climbed a scaling ladder), causing her to fall, but driven on by her
determination she got up and exhorted her companions forward … the French
(then) took Jargeau, and set off in pursuit of the running English.” The English
suffered heavy losses.
Along the lovely and historic Loire Rive
D’Alencon also made some other interesting comments about this battle,
including this one revealing Joan’s gift of prophecy: “During the assault on the
town of Jargeau, Joan said to me at a moment when I stood in a certain spot, that I
should withdraw from that spot and that if I did not withdraw, ‘that machine…’
pointing out to me a war machine which was in the town, ‘will kill you’. I withdrew
and just a little time thereafter, at that very spot where I had been someone was
killed. His name was my Lord de Lude. Realizing all that, a great fear came over
me and I was amazed at Joan’s words, and all these events that came about.”
June 13-16, 2017, 'Base Domrémy-la-Pucelle': There are some great reasons to
spend time in Joan of Arc’s birthplace, Domrémy-la-Pucelle (meaning Domremy
the Maid). For one, it is located in a rural and beautiful part of France. This area is
a good example of 'la France profonde'. This means 'the deep France', i.e. the
lovely pastoral countryside that few tourists ever see, much less experience. Also,
Domrémy-la-Pucelle is a wonderful place to search for both Joan’s roots and her
spirituality. As you might imagine, there is a wealth of Joan of Arc experts living
in this area. In the past, they have been very generous to us with their time,
expertise and warm hospitality. We will take advantage of this again in 2017.
From the small village of Domremy:
in the distance is the Basilica dedicated to Joan of Arc.
Just a couple of kilometers from Joan’s home town of Domremy-la-Pucelle
(i.e. Domremy the Maid)
We’ll have a guided visit of Joan of Arc's house. We'll also spend some time
at the Basilica dedicated to her, the Fairy Tree location (the tree is no longer there,
being cut down in the 17th century) and the "Fountain of the Fevers", where Joan
stated she often heard her "voices". A small fountain still flows there, and is to this
day very calming and pastoral.
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(Above) Across the valley we see the Joan’s Basilica, just outside of Domremy.
At the location of the Fairy Tree and the "Fountain of the Fevers"
You’ll also have some time to explore on your own and visit her childhood
church St. Remy, where she stated St. Margaret appeared to her. It still serves as
the village church to this day.
We have rented gites here (i.e. fully furnished houses). Actually, there are
only three gites located in Domrémy itself, and we have rented them all. They are
on the grounds of a large two-story house that was built by Napoléon III for one of
his mistresses in 1860. These gites are very nice, with lovely large gardens in the
back yard. It is a two-minute walk from there to Joan's house. They have fully
furnished kitchens, microwaves, TVs, DVD players, washing machines…it will be
a place where you can relax and feel at home. In general, gites provide a marked
improvement over a hotel.
A little about French food is in order here. The French are of course known
for their excellent food and wine. And for good reason. Charles de Gaulle said,
"How can you govern a country with 365 different kinds of cheese?" However…
when you eat a "real" French lunch or dinner in a restaurant, you must count on
being there 2-3 hours. It's a nice way to relax, eat well and enjoy each other's
company.
However, ATTENTION! (WATCH OUT!) If you have two full meals in a
restaurant per day, and a petit dejeuner (breakfast), your day will be reduced by
some 4-6 hours just sitting in a restaurant. There are too many other interesting and
important things to take advantage of in France besides just the food experience.
That's where the traitteur comes in. When there are interesting activities
coming up, and time is of the essence, then we will take advantage of a traitteur
(kind of a French delicatessen who specializes in daily fresh dishes... often very
good!). We've already prepared menus with these specialists for times such as
these. This way, we believe we will have the best of both worlds: good fresh
French food, and the flexibility of eating at home, perhaps a picnic, etc. BTW,
unlike the vast majority of tours, most of the meals (i.e. 82% of all meals) are
covered in the price.
Included in our day trips from Domrémy are: la Chapelle de Notre-Dame de
Beauregard, Maxey-sur-Meuse, Vaucouleurs, la Chapelle de Bermont, Vouthon-
Bas and Bauffremont. Just a word on each of these destinations:
Vaucouleurs-After first convincing the Captain of Vaucouleurs that she was God-
sent, Joan was sent from this small town to see Charles VII, the legitimate king.
We will have a good guide here, one very knowledgeable about Vaucouleurs' Joan
of Arc history. Among other things, we'll visit la Porte de France through which
Joan left on her way to see the King, and the chapel where Joan was often praying
(we even know exactly where she was kneeling).
La Chapelle de Bermont-Joan often went to this simple chapel for prayer. It is still
located in the woods, close to Domrémy. Bermont provides a lovely, quiet,
countryside atmosphere. Mr. Olivier is the President of the Association of Bermont.
He will be there to greet us and explain (we'll be translating) the fascinating story
of Bermont, and the images they have recently uncovered there. These images have
been dated to shortly after the death of Joan and the belief is (for very good
reasons, we think) that these are actually drawings of Joan of Arc by those who
knew her at that time: the monks of the Chapelle de Bermont.
While at Reims, our place of rest will be the beautiful Benedictine
monastery, Les Benedictines de St-Thierry. It is located in the countryside, in the
middle of Champagne country, just outside the city of Reims (Rheims in English).
It is a very relaxing environment. Monks or nuns have lived in this peaceful place
since the 6th century. The sisters’ gardens (they grow their own fruit and flowers)
overlook the surrounding vineyards and countryside, extending all the way to city
of Reims and its famous cathedral, some eight kilometers away. Beautiful!
The Benedictine Sisters are a very hospitable community. They will serve us
our meals while in Reims (the food is simple here, healthy and typically French).
For those interested, you may attend some of the Sisters’ prayer services, and/or
hear their soothing singing, in their 12th century chapel. Also for those interested,
we will be meeting with one of the sisters, who will talk a little about their
community life of prayer, hospitality and work, and answer any questions you may
have.
Chris Snidow
9320 Biscayne Blvd.
Dallas, TX 75218 USA